Nafplio stands at the head of the Argolic Gulf in the eastern Peloponnese. Its old streets occupy low ground between the harbour and two fortified heights, while Bourtzi rises from a small island just offshore. This is more than a picturesque stop: it was the first capital of the modern Greek state from 1827 to 1834 and remains an administrative and tourist centre for Argolis. The Greek-language account records 14,532 residents in the 2021 census for the city, a reminder that the historic quarter belongs to a larger working community.

From ancient settlement to a fortified port

The locality is older than its neoclassical façades. The Greek-language history describes finds from prehistoric and Mycenaean periods in the area and distinguishes archaeological occupation from a later, continuous urban story. Ancient Nauplia came under the influence of Mycenae and then Argos. Its significance as a fortified port grew in Byzantine and medieval times. The town passed through Frankish, Venetian and Ottoman rule; each period altered its walls, harbour and streets. Rather than attach an uncertain founding date to the present city, it is more accurate to see several settlements and successive fortifications occupying the same strategic coast.

The Greek account places Frankish control in 1212 and Venetian rule from 1388, followed by Ottoman control in 1540. A second Venetian period began in 1686, when the major Palamidi fortress was built above the town; the Ottomans recovered Nafplio in 1715. These dates give context to the visible layers, but the walk itself is simpler: from the harbour, look up toward Akronafplia above the old town and Palamidi higher on the hill. Offshore Bourtzi, the island fortress, guarded the sea approach. The Greek National Tourism Organisation notes that a chain once linked it with Akronafplia to close the harbour against enemy ships.

Palamidi, Bourtzi and the streets below

Palamidi is a Venetian fortification from the early eighteenth century, with eight bastions designed to work together or independently. Its position commands the city and the gulf. The official visitor page gives the hill's height as 216 metres and offers road access as well as a stairway; verify current admission and opening hours before climbing, especially in heat. The fortress later entered the history of the Greek Revolution. Below, the older Akronafplia peninsula overlooks a maze of stone-paved lanes, Ottoman fountains, Venetian buildings and neoclassical houses. Bourtzi is best understood from the waterfront first, as the third part of this defensive geography.

After the Greek Revolution, Nafplio became the new state's capital before that role moved to Athens in 1834. That short period left a lasting place in national memory, yet the town also developed as a port, a seat of local administration and a destination with hotels and restaurants. Follow the waterfront, then cross into the inner streets and squares rather than visiting only the hilltop fort. The modern neighbourhoods beyond the old core show that Nafplio is inhabited year-round, not solely a preserved enclave for visitors.

Getting there and planning a day

Argos lies about 11 kilometres away, according to the Greek-language account. The official Greek tourism guide lists intercity KTEL buses linking Nafplio with Athens, Argos, Corinth and nearby towns, and describes the Athens trip as about one and a half to two hours. Confirm the current departure point and timetable for the exact date. A useful day can combine an early visit to Palamidi, time in the old streets and a waterfront view of Bourtzi. If you want to enter museums or take an island boat, check their separate operating arrangements rather than assuming they are included in a fortress ticket.

Sources and useful links