Oprtalj: The "Town of 72 Men of Letters" Atop Istria
Oprtalj (Italian: Portole) is a small medieval village and municipality in northern Istria, Croatia, perched 378 metres above the Mirna River valley, directly opposite Motovun. The municipality has 748 inhabitants (2021 census), of whom only 75 live in the village core. Historically known as the "Town of 72 Men of Letters," it was a seat of notaries, jurists, and scholars during the Venetian era.
History and heritage Oprtalj's roots stretch back to prehistory: it was the site of an Illyrian hill fort and later a Roman military base. In the Middle Ages it functioned as a fortress surrounded by defensive walls. The Venetian legacy is pervasive: the 16th-century Venetian Loggia, with its spectacular viewpoint overlooking the Osoje valleys and Istrian hills, is the village's most admired building and for many offers one of the most beautiful views in all of Istria. The Parish Church of St George (1526), with its singular domed bell tower that differs from the pyramidal form typical of Istria, and the frescoes of the Chapel of the Little Virgin Mary are the most notable religious monuments. Medieval walls, stone portals, and colourful houses create an atmosphere of authenticity rarely found in such a small village.
Gastronomy and activities Oprtalj is a gateway to Istria's truffle zone: the famous Zigante restaurant —in the neighbouring hamlet of Livade— and olive oil producer Ipsa —in the village of Ipsi— offer tastings and visits. The cycling and hiking route of the Parenzana, the former narrow-gauge railway connecting Trieste with Poreč between 1902 and 1935, passes through Oprtalj.
Points of interest: - Population: 748 (municipality, 2021); 75 (village). - Altitude: 378 metres above sea level. - Distances: ~20 km from Motovun, ~40 km from Poreč. - Getting there: Own vehicle required. No regular public transport.